Some general information about Oaxaca

Where is it?

Oaxaca is one of Mexico´s southernmost states. It shares borders with Guerrero, Puebla, Veracruz, Chiapas, and the Pacific Ocean.   

Oaxaca City sits in a valley (elevation of 1,555 meters or 5,102 ft.) surrounded by four mountain ranges – the Northern Sierra, the Southern Sierra, and the Sierra Madre del Sur.  By car, it takes approximately 3 hours to reach the coast to the west, 6 hours to drive north to Mexico City, and 12 hours to travel south to Chiapas.

Who lives here?

The state of Oaxaca is home to approximately 4 million people. Over 2 million live in Oaxaca City, the state capital, while the remaining population is distributed across rural communities and larger towns outside the capital.

Oaxaca boasts the greatest linguistic and cultural diversity of any state in Mexico. According to the National Commission for the Development of Indigenous Peoples, more than 1.5 million residents live in households where at least one member either speaks an indigenous language or identifies as Indigenous, even if they do not speak the language.

Approximately one million people in Oaxaca—about 35% of the state’s population—speak one or more indigenous languages. The largest linguistic groups include Zapotec, Mixtec, Mazatec, Chinantec, Mixe, and Chatino.

The people of Oaxaca take immense pride in their cultural diversity, preserving a rich tapestry of traditions, customs, and celebrations. Visitors to Oaxaca should recognize the privilege of being welcomed into this community and are encouraged to approach their experience with respect and appreciation.

Can I get by with a little Spanish? 

Most people in Oaxaca have enough English to communicate basics with non-Spanish speakers, though it is respectful to assume none is spoken and do your best to communicate with what Spanish language skills you have. If you are staying for a longer period, it is recommended to take a few language classes. Not only will it help to get by, but will allow for deeper connections with the place and people.  

Where is the airport?

While the airport is only 10 miles from Oaxaca City, due to traffic and frequent roadblocks, it can take up to 40 minutes to get into the city. 

How can I get around?

Once you arrive in the city center, a car is no longer necessary—most places of interest are easily accessible on foot. If transportation is required, standard taxi fares within the city range from 100 pesos. Other transportation options are local buses, which charge just 10 pesos and can take you to areas beyond the city center.

Pocoapoco also collaborates closely with a trusted private taxi service. Car services can be arranged in advance for trips outside the city. The drivers are experienced locals who are deeply familiar with Oaxaca and have been working with us for many years. 

Places of interest outside of the city

Teotitlan del Valle

Teotitlan del Valle, or Xaguixe in Zapoteco, is a small village about 40 minutes from Oaxaca City in the foothills of the Sierra Juarez Mountains. A Zapoteca village known for beautiful woven textiles, it's a destination for people looking to purchase rugs or learn traditional weaving and dying techniques. The wool and dyes used in the production of textiles here are usually made from natural materials.

Tlacolula Market

The Sunday market of Tlacolula is located in Tlacolula de Matamoros (about 45 minutes by car from the center) and is one of the oldest continuous Markets in Mesoamerica and the largest and busiest in the Central Valley region of Oaxaca. This market is part of a tradition of weekly markets which is still found in Oaxaca, where people from rural areas come to the local town to buy, sell and socialize, and are a functional feature of pre-modern peasant economies. The market provides a retail outlet for those living in communities too small to support permanent retail establishments.   

Centro des Artes de San Agustin (CaSA)

CaSA is an ecological arts center located in San Agustin Etla, a town 40 minutes from the center of Oaxaca. CASA is a public space created for artistic training, creation, experimentation, reflection, and analysis.  It was founded by Oaxacan artist Francisco Toledo. It is a beautiful space and highly recommended to visit.  Adjacent to CASA is El Taller de Papel Vistahermosa, a small paper factory producing handmade paper and paper goods.  The paper factory closes at 3 pm daily. 

San Bartolo Coyotepec

This little town is famous for its barro negro, black pottery. The clay is sourced locally and crafted into pots and bowls, principally made without the use of a potter’s wheel.  There is a small market that varies in size and participation.

Tlapanochestli Cochineal Farm

Tlapanochestli means “deep red color” in Nahuatl and is the name of a cochineal farm in Santa Maria Coyotepec, Oaxaca.  The farm teaches the process of, and everything related to the cultivation of cochineal. They also provide a historical context of the existence of this red dye, as well as its present significance in Oaxaca and throughout the world.

The Mountains 

The Northern Sierra is an hour's drive away.  The weather cools off at the skirt of the mountains and it’s a good place to hike, explore the small towns, or eat lunch. The southern Sierra takes a little longer to reach, however, is worth the drive for the beautiful landscape.

The Beach

The beach is only about 150 miles from Oaxaca and takes 3 hours to reach by car. Puerto Escondido and Huatulco are the two major ports, with smaller towns and beautiful beaches such as Zipolite, San Agustinillo, and Mazunte scattered between.  

Politics and protests

Oaxaca's culture is deeply shaped by the rich diversity of its people and traditions. However, like anywhere in the world, culture and the experiences of its people cannot be entirely separated from politics. The vibrant colors and overall sense of ease in the city often stand in contrast to the visible presence of strikes, blockades, tents, and heavily armed police, reflecting a more complex reality beneath the surface.

Protests, rallies, and roadblocks have long been recognized as a way for Oaxacans to bring attention to the social challenges facing the state. While these demonstrations are not dangerous, they do offer an opportunity to reflect on why this is happening. The reasons behind protests vary, and people are often open to sharing their perspectives on what is happening in their city.

Gaining insight into the intersection of culture, community, and politics can deepen your understanding and appreciation of Oaxaca, offering a more nuanced view of this remarkable place.

Water

In Oaxaca, water is a precious resource, with availability determined by the region's wet and dry seasons. During the wet season, rainfall is collected and stored by the city council to supply residents during the dry months. However, water shortages are common, and supply is often prioritized to serve hotels and short-term accommodation, meaning that the rest of the local population must rely on costly water deliveries or wait for the city to restore access, which can weeks. Experts warn that Oaxaca may face a complete water shortage within the next decade if the current conditions persist. Visitors to Oaxaca are encouraged to use water responsibly, recognizing the significant challenges faced by the region.